Attar distilling in Kannauj

What it is

Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh has made attar, a natural perfume oil, for centuries. The method has barely changed. Flowers are sealed with water in a copper pot called a deg, set over a wood or dung fire. The steam passes through a bamboo pipe into a second vessel, the bhapka, which holds sandalwood or another base oil and sits in a trough of cool water. The oil takes up the scent over many hours. Damask rose is distilled in spring, jasmine in summer, and the town is known for mitti attar, which captures the smell of rain on dry earth. Small family distilleries sometimes show visitors around.

Before you go

• Arrange a visit in advance through a perfumer or a local guide. These are workshops, not showrooms.
• Spring is the rose season. Other flowers follow through the year.
• Ask before taking photographs of workers and stills.

The flowers you will see

Damask roseA fragrant pink rose grown for oil, water, and sweets in West and South AsiaArabian jasmineA small white jasmine with a strong, sweet scent, treasured in Asia for garlands and ceremoniesChampakA tall tree with fragrant yellow to orange flowers, prized in South and Southeast Asia

Also part of it, and being written: Jasminum grandiflorum.

Read more

KannaujHistoric city in Uttar Pradesh known for traditional attar and flower perfumes

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